FFME42

An outstanding event

The path which, for the first time, will lead the climbers to be Olympic Games in 2020 in Tokyo goes through Saint-Etienne that welcomes the first European Combined Olympic competition - speed – boulder – lead - on the 24,25,26, November 2017

Two events, three days of competitions

Two major times :

- Saturday, November 25th at 7 pm, National Master finals

Come and anjoy a sporty entertainment of a top level on sturday, the 25th of November for the Combined National Master with the best French climbers

with :

- d’Anouck Jaubert, SPEED : gold medal World Cup 2017 - silver medal World Games 2017 – silver medal World Championship 2016 – golden medal European Championship 2015
- Manu Cornu, BOULDER : bronze medal World Championship 2016
- Romain Desgranges, LEAD : winner of Arco World Cup 2016 – golden medal European Championship 2013

- Sunday, November 26 th, European Youth Championship (Youth A)

There are two challenges :
- Win the first Olympic Combined European Championship
- Be qualified for the Youth Olympic Games in Argentina 2018

The three aspects of climbing will be presented on one unique competition :

FASTER, speed - the goal is to climb as fast as possible
STRONGER, boulder – the goal is to reach as many tops as possible with fewer tries in 5 minutes
HIGHER, lead – the goal is to climb as high possible

The Olympic Combined in climbing : three disciplines :}

SPEED on the record road, 15 meters high and 5 degres inclination, a road that is the same ewerywhere in the word and never changes
- Qualification stage : the temporary classification is made according to the best times,
- Final stage (battle) : depending on their classification in the qualification stage, two climbers confront each other. The one who losers the battle is eliminated, the one who wins is qualified for the next battle

BOULDER 30 meters large, 4,50 meters high front wall. The climbers try to reach the tops of 4 blocks with as fewers tries as possible in a set time (5minutes for the bloc, 5 minutes’ rest between each block)
- Qualification stage : 4 blocks (5 minutes for each block, 5 minutes’ rest)
- Final stage : 4 blocks with direct confrontation

LEAD a 15 meters high wall, with 8 meters overhang. The climbers go as high as possible. Their set time is 6 minutes. They do not know the road, but they are allowed some time to examine it collectively

The 3 disciplines follow on from each other (speed – boulder – lead). The classification is determined by multiplying the positions obtained by the climbers in each discipline.

The new Jean Gachet gymnasium – Saint-Etienne will provide the setting for these competitions


Saint-Etienne is constantly changing, it has been driven by the links between design and industry for more than two centuries. The city uses design as a catalyst of creative potentials of everyone.
Since 2010, Saint-Etienne has belonged to a world wide network of 16 cities enjoying the label « Ville Créative Design » awarded by UNESCO.


The artficial climbing wall of the new Jean Gachet gymnasium opened in November 2016 fits in this procedure linking design and innovation.

Planned by the company ESCATECH with the partnership of the Comité territorial FFME de la Loire, the 15 meters high and 52 meters large structure (872 m2) offers a hundred roads (10 000 holds) of all possible standards, a double speed road (IFSC certified) and a front wall of blocks which is integrated to the lead wall. To this day, this climbing wall is the first and the only one to allow the Olympic Combined speed – boulder - lead on the same equipment. This creation has been carried out with a financial help from the FFME.

National Master

Program

EUCH

  • Friday, November 24th

    Qualification National Master

    12h00 - 12h15 : Qualification speed men
    12h15 - 12h30 : Qualification speed women

    13h00 - 15h10 : Qualification boulder men
    13h15 - 15h15 : Qualification boulder women

    15h45 : Observation time lead men & women

    16h10 - 17h55 : Qualification lead men

    16h10 - 17h40 : Qualification lead women

  • Saturday, November 25th

    Qualification EUCH YOUTHA

    09h00 - 09h25 : Qualification speed men
    09h30 - 09h50 : Qualification speed women
    09h55 - 12h05 : Qualification boulder men
    10h25 - 12h30 : Qualification boulder women

    12h50 : Observation time lead men

    13h10 - 14h55 : Qualification lead men

    13h00 : Observation time lead women

    13h25 - 15h10 : Qualification lead women

    PDF - 294 kb

    infosheet

  • Saturday, November 25th

    Final National Master

    17h30 : Open to the public

    18h15 : Observation time boulder & lead men and women

    FINAL MEN & WOMEN
    19h00 : Final speed
    19h40 : Final boulder
    21h30 : Final lead

    22h00 : Awarding ceremony

  • Sunday, November 26th

    Final EUCH YOUTHA

    FINAL MEN
    08h55 : Observation time boulder & lead

    09h30 : Final speed
    10h05 : Final boulder
    11h50 : Final lead

    FINAL WOMEN
    12h45 : Observation time boulder & lead

    13h15 : Final speed
    13h50 : Final boulder
    15h40 : Final lead

    16h05 : Awarding ceremony

Partners

Infos

Pratiques

Travel details

Competition venue : Gymnase Jean Gachet, 8, boulevard Alfred de Musset - 42 000 St Etienne

By plane

Lyon-Saint Exupery Airport
- Shuttle Ouibus (bus) just outside airport > Saint-Etienne Chateaucreux station > tramway (to Bellevue - stop Jean Jaurès) > 5 mn walk.
- Or Tram > Lyon Part-Dieu station > Train TER Saint-Etienne Chateaucreux station > tramway (to Bellevue – get off at Jean Jaurès) > 5 mn walk.

By Train

TGV direct Paris - Saint-Etienne-Chateaucreux station > tramway (to Bellevue – get off at Jean Jaurès) > 5 mn walk.

By car

Via Lyon (A6-A7) – Genève (A 42 – A46) – Chambéry (A41-A46) – Grenoble(A43-A46) – Valence (A7) – Saint Exupery Airport (A43-A46)
- Saint-Etienne (A47)
- Saint Etienne centre ville (rue de la Montat > Chateaucreux station > rue Louis Souillie > Boulevard Jules Janin > Boulevard Alfred de Musset.
 
Via Clermont Ferrand (A72)
- Exit : Saint-Etienne centre ville > Rue Bergson > boulevard urbain > Boulevard Alfred de Musset.

Accomodation

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- Hôtel F1 114 rue des Aciéries St Etienne 08 91 70 53 81
- Hôtel de la Tour 3 rue Mercière St Etienne 04 77 32 28 48
- Hôtel le Baladin 12 rue de la Ville St Etienne 04 77 33 00 66

* *
- Hôtel Furania 18 rue de la résistance - St Etienne 04 77 32 19 82
- Hôtel le Chaudron Vert 23 rue des 3 glorieuses - St Etienne 04 77 74 23 18
- Ibis Budget 21 BD G Pompidou - St Etienne 08 92 63 31 65
- Hôtel l’Acropole Le Crèt de Mars - La Ricamarie 04 77 80 06 01
- Hôtel Le National 3 rue Cugnot - St Etienne 04 77 33 11 97
- Hôtel de la Tour rue Robert Schuman - Le Chambon Feugerolles 04 77 89 07 72
- Campanille Villars 2 Chemin de la Goutte Villars 0892 23 48 12
- B&B 17 rue Marc Charras - St Etienne 08 9270 08 06
- Hôtel Kyriad 77 rue de la Montat – St Etienne 04 77 21 12 21
- Résid Hotel 5 rue Louis Braille St Etienne 04 77 45 10 00
- Hôtel Ibis 35 av Denfert Rochereau St Etienne 04 77 37 90 90
- Première classe 1 rue Edouard Garet – Andézieux-Bouthéon 04 77 3545 33
- Best Western 2 Bd Desgranges - Andrézieux Bouthéon 04 77 36 10 50

- MFR 38 rue Paul Michelon - St Etienne 04 77 47 82 50
- Maison des élèves 20 Bd Alexandre de Fraissinette - St Etienne 04 77 42 93 00

- Chalet du Pilat - Planfoy 06 16 02 61 27
Petits chalets en fustes en pleine nature à 15 mn de St Etienne

Parking

Parking Sequoïa - reserved organizers

Parking is possible along boulevard Alfred de Musset

Other parking space :

- Parking Jean Jaurès : 750 m - 9’
- Parking le clapier : 800 m - 11’
- Parking Avenue Augustin Dupré : 800 m - 11’
- Parking Hôtel de Ville : 1000 m - 13’
- Parking Médiathèque : 1100 m - 15’
- Parking les Ursules : 1500 m - 20’

Gallery